I can't believe I forgot my time-turner.

11/11/2010 Our days here are passing at a disgracefully constant pace, much to my dismay, and so now I’m sitting outside, gazing around me and trying to slow down time with sheer brain power and want. Unfortunately, I seem to be failing.

The past week has been pretty busy with busy work and preparation for the presentations of our research results. It’s taken a lot more brain power than I had expected, but come tomorrow morning when it’s time to dress up in our smart outfits and explain our projects to the mayor of Ranomafana I think we’ll all be prepared.

Last night a few of us ended up pulling an all-nighter trying to complete our statistics and powerpoint presentations. At around 4:30 we all called it quits and stepped outside to realize the sun was rising.

I, personally, immediately forgot that I was tired, grabbed my camera and tried my best to capture the mist rolling over the forested hills in the slanted rays of early light. Despite my 100+ tries I don’t think I’d ever be able to do the beauty of it justice, as I imagine my preemptive nostalgia boosted it gorgeous rating by an additional 12 (out of 20, perhaps? Arbitrary numbers are fantastic). Tiff and I both decided to hang around for the sunset and eventually made our way to the top of a water filtration building where we had a fairly spectacular view of the surrounding forest and were able to await the sun’s arrival as it slowly rose above the nearby hills.

As the morning crept on we greeted the various ValBio residents as they made their way down to breakfast from the campsite. It was a morning I hadn’t expected, but one that I hope to never forget. I’m taking the end of my time here pretty hard, already.

More interesting that the sunrise (for it happens every morning, generally), however was the 5 days a group of us spent in the primary forest Valohoaka (Valo) completing the second half of our independent research. It was exactly the experience I was hoping to gain from our independent research project, and one I will always hope for a chance to repeat.

The Tuesday (Nov. 2) we were to depart for Valo we aimed to leave around 7:30; this of course means we were headed up the ValBio driveway around 8:45, packs on our back with 5 days of clothes, our sleeping pads and bags, and various other generally unnecessary items snugly packed away. The hike took us about 4 hours to get there, though we stopped several times for breaks and scenic appreciation.

The campsite at Valo is simply terrific. It’s on a mildly steep hill, which consequently tends to be mildly treacherous when wet, but everyone managed to keep their footing the first 2 nights when it was very wet. The great thing about the campsite’s being situated on a hill was the view that it allowed. The bottom of the campsite (was still about 2/3 of the way up the hill we were situated on) was terraced and cleared in about a 4x20 meter area, providing space for a clothes line on which we could dry laundry and the dining tent. The clearing also provided us with a brilliant view of the hill looming up the other side of the ravine, at the bottom of which was the stream from which we got our drinking water, and for anyone who wanted to shower (which none of us found time to do while we were there) a waterfall.

The dining tent I feel absolutely inclined to mention and describe, simply because I adored it more than any other place I’ve had the pleasure to enjoy a meal, almost certainly in Madagascar, maybe even ever. So the word ‘tent’ is a bit misleading in this circumstance. It was actually just a collection of tarps, set up to provide a roof and 2 walls, stretching length of the area where the food was prepared and consumed. The front and back were both open, though the back of the tent was largely blocked off by the cooking fire, a quaint set up with rocks arranged to hold an iron pot over the fire in which they cooked rice, beans, vegetables, eggs, and even smoked zebu.

There was a single hand crafted bench along one wall of the tent, and a long uneven table which about 5 people could sit at comfortably. We had 13 people including the Malagasy guides and cooks, so meal times were crowded but cozy. My last comment on the food and dinging circumstances in Valo: Never, in my life, have I so thoroughly enjoyed a small tin cup of plain boiled water. As was mentioned several times during our stay there, consumables are always better when you’re camping, and maybe it was just knowing that they retrieved the water from the very stream in which I was studying for my independent research, but come the end of the day the scorching water which they set out for us was quite likely the most enjoyable beverage I’ve had since I’ve been in Madagascar.

The only real hesitation I had with our stay in the primary forest was the leeches. Yet despite my long standing distaste for the blood-sucking slugs it was surprisingly easy to get over my absolute repulsion for them. Fortunately, after the second day the sun came out and finally decided to stick around. As the ground dried out the leeches retreated to where ever leeches hide and we spent a delightful few
days in the sunshine-lit primary forest, nearly entirely leech free.

The other 5 students staying in Valo were all doing their research projects on the behavior of a group of Propithecus edwardsii, Sifaka lemurs. Sadly, the second day we were there word got back to Hannah and I at the campsite that one of the babies was missing. It was assumed to be dead, likely the victim of an infanticide. That evening after dinner someone procured a bottle of whiskey and we all took a swig and Will, the student who had been studying the 2 infant lemurs, poured out a shot for poor little Jameson, the late lemur infant. It was a touching moment, though inevitably tainted with the bitterness of a young life lost.

Our last day there found us with a morning in the primary forest, free to do with as we pleased. I decided to accompany the group that was going to continue following the Sifakas. I’d yet to be presented with the opportunity to spend any extended period of time following and watching the lemurs, so I eagerly grabbed my camera and headed off into the woods to romp and stumble up and down hillsides,chasing after the arboreally inclined primates. The day was beautiful and I took an obscene number of pictures (of course) and managed to deplete my entire battery about half way through our time in the forest.

Something I’ve failed to mention until now; every day the students following the Props had to follow them from essentially sunrise to sunset. The group they were following was one which had been studied for years prior, one of individuals in the group had a radio collar which usually allowed for the guides and researchers to find them in the forest each day. Unfortunately there was some difficulty acquiring permits to re-capture and replace the radio collars, and consequently the only way for them to ensure they’d find the lemurs each day was to follow them until the lemurs had settled into a tree for the night, and rise early enough to catch up with them before they strayed far from their resting spot the next morning. I got to witness some really intense science in action, and it was an experience I had never expected, but yet another memory I’m certain I’ll never forget.

That afternoon we made the hike back through the forest to ValBio. We were greeted by the rest of our group as well as 3 new Malagasy students from the University of Fianar, here for internship-like work, and 2 new researchers.

It’s been an enjoyable and relaxing though busy week here since our return; I’ve been doing my best to learn as much Malagasy as I can while I’m here around native speakers. Unfortunately that’s still not a lot. More than anything, I’ve just been doing my best to enjoy every moment I have left in Ranomafana. The weather’s been sunny and warm for the last few days, and I’ve had spent a fairly impressive amount of time procrastinating by simply staring off the balcony of ValBio, trying to memorize every leaf and shadow in view.

Last night we were talking about Christmas for about an hour after dinner. Christmas carols mid-November in Madagascar just aren’t quite the same, but it certainly didn’t prevent “They’re singing deck the halls, but it’s not like Christmas at all” from imbedding itself in all of our heads for a few hours. It’s strange to recognize that it will likely (hopefully) be snowing when I return, but the Christmas season is certainly something I’m excited come home to.

Tomorrow night we’re having a party here in honor of the completion of our independent research, as well as the birthday of one of the researchers. It should be fun. Photo and music swaps have begun, and talk of home has been growing more and more prevalent. Hannah and I have been conferencing about plans for my time in Europe (I’m planning to visit her in England!) before returning to the states, but I’m trying not to think too much about being anywhere aside from Madagascar for the rest of my time here.


11.13.2010 So I didn’t make it to town to post that last entry after I wrote it, and now I’ve more to write. Joy!

Yesterday morning we descended the hill to ValBio for breakfast and found nearly all of the tables cleared out of the main dining room. Breakfast was a (more) casual affair than usual, and then it was time for our smart outfits and last minute run throughs of our presentations. The first student was to present 8:30, because Patricia Wright had to leave at noon and wanted to see all of our presentations before she departed. With 14 of us each doing 10-15 minute long presentations it took the better part of the morning, but it was pretty interesting and was great to see what everyone took away from their 2 weeks of research.

After presentations we had most of the day until dinner time to do what we wanted. Most of us headed up the Gite for a drink and just to hang out. We were accompanied by 2 of the students from the University of Fianar which allowed for some hilarity as a result of language barriers and foolish games requiring rhyming.

We returned to ValBio a few hours before dinner, met with our resident coordinator for feedback on our presentations, and just lounged around, enjoying the company and the warm weather. Eventually we made our way into the dining hall which had once again been re-arranged; only this time it was arranged for the going away party that they were throwing to celebrate the conclusion of our time here.

All of the guides were invited, of course the researchers and students staying at ValBio, and pretty much anyone else we had interacted with during our time here. Upon realization that this would be the last time I saw a lot of these people, I started tearing up, honestly this surprised me (I usually don’t cry until I’ve left), but then I realized that Jethro (another study abroad student), was playing what may be the most depressing German song I’ve ever heard in my right ear, and partially attribute my overactive tear ducts to that. . .

Dinner was accompanied by a party – which meant a ton of delicious, buffet-style, Malagasy food. They made us miniature zebu-burgers, samosas, bean pies (which are brilliant), and Malagasy pizza, among an assortment of other sensational food, carbonated beverages (I refuse to generalize with either the word soda or pop), fresh squeezed mango juice, and THB to drink, finished off with fresh bananas and mangos, and a while later chocolate cake. So much food, so little stomach capacity. . .

After we had finished eating the music came on. Malagasy love to dance, and are just so good at it, I’ve mentioned that before, but it’s true and it’s phenomenal. It was a blast as always, trying to keep up with their crazy footwork and generally jumping around like a fool to the music. It was particularly exciting to periodically realize that we had all started to recognize some of the Malagasy music and knew some of the dances that went along.

The night lasted a while, it was great to see everyone and enjoy a final night with all the people we’ve grown so familiar with. Yet it was also a distinctly bittersweet evening. There were so many people I’ve grown to know well and love, so many people I’ve only recently met and want the chance to get to know better, and so little time to express my appreciation for everything everyone there has done for us.
The night carried on with a jovial atmosphere, however, and we have tons of pictures and videos that I can’t wait to revisit upon my return to the states. By the end of the night it was nearly only study abroad still hanging out and dancing. At some point the two decorative wicker giraffes made their way onto the dance floor to take part in the dancing.

Now all we’ve really got to do is make a few final changes to our presentations for when we present them in Tana a week from today, and pack up our stuff. I’m distraught at the thought, and am reluctant to even begin packing – so instead I wrote this up and am headed down into town, probably for the last time. . .

We’re headed out early Monday morning to visit one last national park in Andasibe, but I think I’m going to hide in the woods until the bus leaves. Aw shucks, I guess I’d just have to stick around here for a while more.